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DIY: How to add daytime running lights (DRL) to a 2010-2011 Prius

Here’s another mod I’ve performed on the Prius, specifically useful for 2010-2011 3rd gen Prius owners, that’s a spin-off from a past project done on the Acura RSX. I started this mod some time in early May, but got side tracked with the JDM Prius power folding side mirror project and then became inundated with projects at work, causing me to further delay the DIY guide.

With minor modification, you can add OEM-style reduced output high beam DRLs to just about any vehicle using this guide. The concept and wiring remains constant. The only difference is using the correct high beam connector for your specific application. This guide illustrates how to convert your high beam 9005 bulbs into OEM-style reduced intensity daytime running lights (DRL). This mod can also be performed on the 2012+ 3rd gen Prius, but since the 2012+ Prius models already have integrated LED daytime running lights from factory, adding this mod is generally for cosmetic purposes (especially if you use colored bulbs, such as yellow).

However, if you decide not to use the factory LED daytime running lights on the 2012+ Prius, this mod functions as authentic and legal DRL alternative. I personally think high beam converted DRLs are more effective than the 2012+ Prius OEM LED DRLs, since they are mounted higher thus making them more visible. For 2010-2011 3rd Gen Prius owners, this mod will give you the added visibility and safety benefits of daytime running lights. In my personal opinion, this approach of adding OEM-style aftermarket DRL looks 110% cleaner than adding a pair of tacky looking LED bars on the front grill or taping a pair of tacky Christmas-light-looking LED strips on the headlights that both stick out like a sore thumb no matter how you look at them.

If you’re ready to proceed, this project will take approximately 1.5 hours to complete. After experience gained from the Acura RSX DRL project, this guide will be efficiently written and simplified.

As with other DIY guides, common sense and judgement should be used. This guide is written solely for educational purpose only. Neither warranty is expressed nor implied. I encourage you to read this guide thoroughly at least once to assess your capability of performing the mod on your own. If you cannot or don’t have the tools, I recommend you consult with a qualified installer to help you with the install.

Parts Needed

A “Set” means 10 or more quantity of each

  • 1x Hamsar 45060 DRL Module
  • 1x wire cutter and stripper
  • 1x black electrical vinyl tape
  • 1x split flex 1/2″ or smaller wire conduit
  • 1x set of zip ties
  • 1x Philips screwdriver
  • 1x set of 14-16 AWG  female quick disconnects
  • 1x set of 14-16 AWG T-Taps
  • 1x set of 14-16 AWG male quick disconnects
  • 2x 14-16 AWG spade terminals
  • 1x Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT; 5-contacts) automotive relay
  • 1x reel of 14-16 AWG wires
  • 1x male 9005 connector with pigtails
  • 2x female 9005 connectors with pigtails
  • 1x Single Pole Single Throw (SPST; 4-contacts) automotive relay – OPTIONAL
  • 1x dedicated push button switch – OPTIONAL

You need the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to begin this project. Without it, you can’t move forward. I recommend looking at their reseller/distributor list on Doing so will save you some extra cash.

Hamsar 45060 compact solid state DRL module

Hamsar 45060 compact solid state DRL module

For some reason, the 45060 DRL module is not listed for sale on their web site. I contacted Terminal Supply Co., the fine folks where I ordered the original Hamsar unit for the RSX project in late 2009, just to check and see if they still carry the 45060 module. Sure enough, they happen to have one in stock and ready to ship. I placed the order immediately with them over the phone. Price for the 45060 unit from Terminal Supply Co. is $75.00 plus shipping and tax.

Since the Hamsar 45060 compact DRL module is a solid state relay, no mechanical armature exists to switch electrical circuit. This means that premature failure from worn armature is eliminated and the solid state relay will last for a very very long time.

For added safety and control, include a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) relay into your list of parts:

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- SPDT relay

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- SPDT relay

Note: You will need a Hamsar module designed for high beam conversion. A module designed for low beam conversion will not work.

Creating Dummy 9005 Headlight Connectors

The high beams under this mod will be powered directly by the 12V battery. The OEM high beam connector, from the driver side, will function as a trigger to switch between high beam and daytime running lights mode via the Hamsar 45060 module. Because of this set up, we need to make a few mods to the OEM high beam connectors.

In order to wire up the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to your existing lighting system without cutting any wires or connectors from your OEM headlights, we need to create three dummy 9005 connectors:

  • 1 male and
  • 2 females

When I performed this project on my Acura RSX years ago, pre-assembled 9005 connectors with pigtails were either hard to come by or not cheap, so I had to order the parts from Honda and assemble the connectors myself. These days, you can find them readily available on eBay for cheap. Simply search for “9005 connector.” This is what they look like:

Female 9005 connector

Female 9005 connector

Male 9005 connector

Male 9005 connector

Fortunately, I have some high quality Honda 9005 connector parts and pigtails left over to create a set:

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- spare Honda parts for female 9005 connectors and pig tails

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- spare Honda parts for female 9005 connectors and pig tails

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- a pair of female 9005 dummy connectors created from spare Honda parts

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- a pair of female 9005 dummy connectors created from spare Honda parts

Step 1

Since we are working directly with active wires in this mod, for safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal in the cargo space of your Prius.

Attach an 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect to the power lead wire from each of the female 9005 connector. Connect an 14-16 AWG spade terminal to each of the ground lead wire.

Step 2

Next take a 3-feet of 14-16 AWG wire and attach an 14-16 AWG male quick disconnect two each ends of this 3-feet patch wire. Connect one end of this 3-feet patch wire to the female quick disconnect on one of the two dummy 9005 female connectors. This dummy 9005 female connector will be designated for the passenger side.

Add a 14-16 AWG T-Tap to the power lead of the remaining dummy 9005 female connector, then attach the other end of the 3-feet patch wire with the 14-16 AWG male quick disconnect to this T-Tap.

Your 9005 female connectors should now share a common power source.

Step 3

Remove your OEM high beam female 9005 connectors from their high beam sockets and connect your “dummy” 9005 female connectors in their place. The OEM high beam 9005 connector on the passenger side should be placed in a secure place inside the engine bay.

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- female 9005 dummy connector plugs into passenger side high beam

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- female 9005 dummy connector plugs into passenger side high beam

Mount the ground spade terminal on each 9005 “dummy” female connectors to a metal bolt. Be conscientious with the ground source of choice. I grounded the passenger side connector to what I thought was a metal bolt but turned out it was a resin bolt painted chrome (as seen above – i.e. do NOT ground to the bolt shown on the photo). I spent about 20 minutes troubleshooting and trying to figure out why the passenger side high beam didn’t turn on, checking the connectors, connections, relays, switch and even thought the Hamsar DRL module may have been faulty:

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- driver side ground location

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- driver side ground location

Step 4

Take the female OEM 9005 high beam connector from the driver side and connect it to your “dummy” 9005 male connector with two lead wires:

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- Male dummy 9005 connector to driver side high beam connector

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- Male dummy 9005 connector to driver side high beam connector

Attach an 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect to each of the lead wire on the “dummy” 9005 male connector.

Attach one wire to terminal 85 on the SPDT automotive relay. Attach the other wire to terminal 86 on the SPDT automotive relay:

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- SPDT relay connections

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- SPDT relay connections

The polarity of the wires going into pins 85 and 86 of the automotive relay doesn’t matter as long as no diode exists in the relay. Most SPDT relays are sold without diode.

Wiring Up the 45060 Module

Here’s the fun part. There are five lead wires extending out of the Hamsar 45060 DRL module. Their color and respective functions are as described:

  • BLK – ground
  • GRN – connects to ignition-active 12V power source (activates DRL on ACC or Ready mode)
  • ORG – connects to low beam wire (deactivates DRL when low beams are on)
  • WHT – connects to high beam wire (60% reduced output)
  • RED – connects to constant 12V power source

Wiring up the DRL module is straight forward. The BLK wire should already have a spade terminal attached. Let’s trim off excess wires and attach a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect to each lead wires (WHT, GRN and RED). Add a male quick disconnect to the end of the ORG wire.

Step 1

Add a T-Tap to the positive wire on the low-beam connector from driver side. Connect the ORG wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to this T-Tap. This turns the DRL off when you activate the low beams.

Step 2

Connect the positive wire from the driver side high beam dummy female 9005 connector to pin #30 on the SPDT automotive relay.

Step 3

Connect the WHT wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to pin #87a on the SPDT automotive relay.

Step 4

Connect the ground wire from the dummy male 9005 plug to pin #86 on the SPDT automotive relay.

Step 5

Connect the GRN wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to a 12V source that’s activated on ACC or Ready mode. A go-to wire for this would be the positive wire on any of the auxiliary power sockets.

Step 6

Connect the RED wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to a constant 12V source.

Step 7

Reconnect the battery terminal(s) if you’ve disconnected it.

Testing the Conversion

At this point, your connection should be complete. If you set your Prius to ACC mode, the high beams will turn on within 5 seconds at 60% reduced output. If you turn on your low beams, your DRL should automatically switch off. If you activate your high beams, they should draw power directly from the 12V source you used and illuminate at 100% intensity.


DIY 2010+ Prius 60% reduced high-beam daytime running lights conversion

DIY 2010+ Prius 60% reduced high-beam daytime running lights conversion

Hamsar 45060 DRL module installed on a 2012 Prius; reduced high beams

Hamsar 45060 DRL module installed on a 2012 Prius; reduced high beams

Hamsar 45060 DRL module installed on a 2012 Prius; normal high beam mode

Hamsar 45060 DRL module installed on a 2012 Prius; normal high beam mode

At this point, you can wrap up the project and tidy up – or you can continue and add a push button switch.

Wiring Up to an Optional Push Button Switch

If you’ve wired everything as instructed up to this point, then your DRL should operate when you switch your Prius to ACC mode. There is a 5-second delay before the DRL turns on. They will turn off if you turn on your low-beams and switch to 100% high beams if you activate your high beams. The following set of instructions will illustrate how to wire up the Hamsar DRL module to a push button switch.

This is the switch I used, by Top Sage International (source at the bottom of the page):

DRL Switch

DRL Switch

It fits perfectly in a vacant switch slot on the driver side switch panel:

DRL switch installed into driver side switch panel

DRL switch installed into driver side switch panel

DRL push button switch in ON position

DRL push button switch in ON position

Assuming you’ve acquired an illuminated push button switch, the switch should have three lead wires coming out of it – similar to a fog light switch. One wire is the 12V input wire, one ground wire and one output wire. The 12V input wire is tapped onto a wire that becomes active when your Prius is in ACC mode. I pick the 12V GRN wire on the auxiliary power socket inside the center armrest console. This wire powers the switch when the Prius is in ACC mode and shuts off when the Prius is off. Accessing this wire is a lot easier than accessing the same socket located on the lower center console. However, the caveat is that getting the plug out of the socket is pretty hard and especially if you have large hands. You’ll see what I mean. To access this wire, you’ll need to remove the center cup holder. Do so by lifting the center armrest and then pushing the cup holder out from below. It’s attached to the center console by four clips.

Technically, you can simply tap the 12V input wire on the switch to this GRN wire and then connect the GRN wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to the 12V output wire on the switch without the additional SPST relay and 15A inline fuse between. I chose not to do this because whenever I work with mods that involve the electric system, I like to safeguard the mod with additional layer of protection; i.e. relays and fuse. If anything goes wrong, the relay or fuse will stop the electric current flow. You can cut corners to save time and omit the additional relay and switch, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

GRN wire to 120V auxiliary power socket

GRN wire to auxiliary power socket

12V active on ACC wire

12V active on ACC wire

Next, ground the BLK wire and route the 12V output wire through the firewall. If you’ve installed fog lights, you know what to do.

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- Same fog light auxiliary path used to route DRL switch wire from engine bay to cabin

How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- Same fog light auxiliary path used to route DRL switch wire from engine bay to cabin

In order to make this work, we need another automotive relay. This time, a 4-contact Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) relay, just like the one used in the fog light installation.

The following connections to the SPST automotive relay will complete the circuit:

  • Ground pin #1
  • Connect pin #2 to the output wire from the push button switch
  • Connect pin #3 to a constant 12V source – you may need to splice or Scotchlok this wire onto an existing wire that’s feeding off a 12V source. Be sure to add a 15A inline fuse between the 12V source and the SPST relay for added protection and safety:

    How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- 15A inline fuse holder

    How to add DRL to a 2010-2011 Prius- 15A inline fuse holder

  • Connect pin #4 to the GRN wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module

Instead of having a 12V-active on ACC mode wire function as the 12V input trigger for the GRN wire from the Hamsar DRL module, we are using the 12V source directly from the battery or an available constant 12V source. The push button switch and SPST relay function as the manual open/closed circuit trigger in between.

60% reduced high beam DRL with yellow Nokya 9005 bulbs

60% reduced high beam DRL with yellow Nokya 9005 bulbs

60% reduced high beam DRL and OEM LED DRL

60% reduced high beam DRL and OEM LED DRL

Clean Up

Completely optional but this is what I did to ensure a tidy post installation clean-up:

2010-2011 Toyota Prius DRL harness, complete

2010-2011 Toyota Prius DRL harness, complete

2010-2011 Toyota Prius DRL harness, complete and labeled

2010-2011 Toyota Prius DRL harness, complete and labeled

I basically turned the amalgamation of wires from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module and SPDT automotive relay into a simpler and cleaner wire harness that can be tucked underneath the driver side headlight and concealed completely.

I am probably going overboard with this application, but I’ve also diode-isolated all the power wires on the DRL wire harness. This prevents any unwanted back feeding of power.

This is what it looks like after all installation and cleanup:

Hamsar 45060 installation complete

Hamsar 45060 installation complete

Wiring Diagrams

Hamsar 45060 DRL module wiring diagram for 2010+ 3rd gen Prius

Hamsar 45060 DRL module wiring diagram for 2010+ 3rd gen Prius

2010+ 3rd gen Prius Hamsar 45060 wiring diagram with switch

2010+ 3rd gen Prius Hamsar 45060 wiring diagram with switch

To download high resolution print-ready PDF of the wiring diagram, select one of the following:


If the DRL do not light up as intended, here are common problem areas to check:

  • Check all wire connections and make sure they are secure and correct
  • Check ground – almost all problems are due to faulty ground. Ground source need to be 100% metal.
  • Check fuses
  • Check relay; if you are re-using a cheap relay that was included with an aftermarket fog light kit, you may want to reconsider and purchase a new one. Most of these included relays are cheap quality and the internal armature fail prematurely. You can tell if you potentially have a cheap quality relay if the relay casing has no markings, i.e. amp rating, volt, brand or diagram. I’ve personally had great success with YLE brand of single pole single throw relays.

Where to Buy

48 comments for “DIY: How to add daytime running lights (DRL) to a 2010-2011 Prius

  1. George Kinal
    May 1, 2015 at 11:31 AM

    I am about to use a NOS “Galls” DRL module, which works (on bench test) the same as the Hamsar, except it is 50% voltage on high beams.

    What I do not understand is why I can’t just tap into one high beam high side lead (without making two separate “dummy connectors”). It’s true that each high beam operates through a separate 10A fuse, so the 50% voltage would end up being routed around both 10A fuses in order to “reach” the untapped headlight, but there seems to be no great harm in doing that.

    • May 4, 2015 at 8:31 AM

      There’s definitely no harm in tapping directly into each wire (as the original Hamsar instructions call for it), but to maintain a manageable and quickly OEM-reversible install, the dummy plug method was used.

  2. Dave
    February 16, 2015 at 5:14 PM

    Hang in there people with these DRL’s . I installed mine back in October and experienced very intermittent self actuating function. After 5 months they finally work perfectly at virtually all temps- all without me doing a thing. That’s the kind of “fix” I like!

  3. George Kinal
    January 8, 2015 at 7:04 PM

    In the past I have used different DRL modules on Mazdas, and those provide the reduced output on the low beams, not the high beams. I have also seen “DRL” installations which use the signalling bulbs. Either of these approaches meets the legal and safety requirements of having DRL. I prefer the low beam approach myself, and this can be achieved using a much lower cost solid state DRL module. Thus, you get always-on DRL on low beams; if you turn on the headlights in the usual way, you get full power low or full power high depending on the dimmer stalk pull.

    None of these approaches matches the functionality of Canadian Toyotas (and I believe some GMs) since at least 1998, wherein the taillights and dash lights also come on when it gets dark.

  4. Dave
    December 15, 2014 at 6:04 PM

    Steve, the wiring diagrams all show a diode on the 12v ACC wire. I didn’t see this in your parts list. I’m guessing this is to keep a shorted DRL from feeding 12v directly back into the car’s 12v system when the Ignition is supposed to be off. I,m just wondering how important it really is. I live in NC and when it is cold is also when the DRL will not activate on its own. It’s not the relays in my case because I didn’t install an interior DRL switch so there are no relays between the 12v ACC and the DRL module. The reduced voltage wire goes straight thru the SPDT headlamp relay. I’m afraid it’s just a glitch in the solid state DRL unit that we will just have to live with. Oh if this were life’s only glitch!

    • December 15, 2014 at 11:08 PM

      The diodes are not really necessary, which is why I left it out of the diagram. I’m almost OCD when it comes to doing electrical install, which explains why it’s in my Prius. I’ve had the same DRL set up with my Acura RSX for years with no problems. A fuse is more than sufficient in this rather simple set up.

  5. December 15, 2014 at 9:02 AM

    So if you guys live in Southern California (or any parts of California), we’ve been pounded by heavy rain falls maybe 2-3 days out of a week for the past 3 weeks. This coupled with winter December weather calls for a frosty morning. Went out to start my car and my DRLs didn’t turn on, flicked on the high beams and they turned on. Another day, the DRLs didn’t turn on again, flicked on the high beam and the high beams turned on and remained on even with the car off! It functioned normally after a few minutes after the engine bay has warmed up, though. So from this observation, I’ve concluded that the armature in one or both of the automotive relays are “locking up” due to the cold weather. After double checking the SPDT and SPST relays, I discovered the SPST relay was the culprit (it was a cheap relay that came with an old RSX fog light kit I had lying around). I tapped the relay with my fingernail and the DRLs functioned normally again. Also, I replaced it with a new relay that I purchased on eBay and the system worked like a charm again. I’m not saying that this may be the issue with the DRLs needing the flick of a high beam to “jump start” them, but it’s a good place to look, especially if you’re using a leftover cheap automotive relay.

  6. Dave
    December 14, 2014 at 4:03 PM

    I installed my DRL in October with the problem of only turning on with a flick of the high beams. During the last 2 months, however, the DRL has continually improved so now 95% of the time the DRL’s will come on on their own. Interesting… Maybe the DRL are “learning”!

  7. Josh
    November 5, 2014 at 12:04 PM

    My installer put in the Hamsar and used your write up. The DRLs only come on intermittently or if I actuate the high beam with the stalk and then turn them off. The installer noticed they were taking varying amounts of time to turn on when he installed them but we did a lot of other work too so didn’t have time to troubleshoot further. I brought it back to him today and the installer said the module is measuring a steady input of 5V DC but is only intermittently outputting 5V DC, which he thinks is a sign the module is not working properly. Did you run into anything like this and are there any other wiring issues that might be the cause or would you draw the same conclusion about the module being bad? Terminal Supply told me it will be time-consuming and annoying to deal with a replacement through Hamsar but they are going to try. The installer told me he could wire up something that replicates what the Hamsar module does for about $75 (parts and labor) and use in place of the Hamsar if I prefer that. Any suggestions based on your experiences and knowledge of working with this part and the troubleshooting you’ve done to help others? Thanks very much in advance for any feedback.

    • November 13, 2014 at 2:30 PM

      I’ve installed the Hamsar module on 3 other cars, 4 cars total including mine. I’ve only ran into the intermittent issue on my car and for about a month due to unforeseen wiring issue. Personally, I wouldn’t invest another $75 onto a makeshift module when the act of flicking the high beam stalk causes the problem to go away – unless of course, you insist on it. The Hamsar module is a solid state relay, so no mechanical parts inside. If there’s a problem with the module itself, I would suspect fault in either the soldering process or quality of the resistor inside.

      • Josh
        November 13, 2014 at 8:34 PM

        Thanks very much for the feedback. Terminal Supply indicated it could be quite a lengthy process to get a replacement from Hamsar and I’m feeling a bit gun shy at this point. They are going to refund me the money which I will use to pay for the part my installer will put together. He can then address any issues on the spot if any arise in the future which, hopefully, will not be the case. It was understanding the Hamsar module is pretty minimalist as far as parts go, but since I’m 0/1 with this part and working with the vendor so time consuming, I opted to go another way. I appreciate your thoughts on this.

  8. Dave
    October 20, 2014 at 7:04 PM

    I have an interesting situation with my set up. Good job explaining the details. The only problem is that the DRL’s will not come on when ACC mode is activated. They will turn on when the high beams are quickly flashed. Turning ignition off will turn off lights normally. All connections are correct as well as the 12V ACC green wire as shown by a multi meter. Activating the high beams of course will give the full 12v to the white 60% wire temporarily. It’s almost like the Hamsar needs a “kick” to activate the reduced voltage wire. What do you think?

    • October 20, 2014 at 9:19 PM

      Interesting because I experienced the exact same phenomenon when I first had my DRL’s on for a month after a week of normal operation. I also had to flash the high beam like yourself to activate the DRL. The solution to the issue is to recheck your connections and ensure that all the terminal joints and disconnects are securely attached to their respective wires. In my case, one of the female quick disconnect on a wire connected to the DPDT automotive relay wasn’t making secure contact (had to remove, re-crimp). Once I fixed it, the problem went away and the DRL turns on 5-sec after the car is in Ready mode. Double checking your grounding points and your terminal joints should be a good place to start.

  9. bhathiya
    October 12, 2014 at 11:28 PM

    How to take wire inside?

  10. Josh
    August 28, 2014 at 9:30 PM

    Do you have a link to a DIY on your blog for OEM (or other better option) fog light install that works well with this DRL mod?

  11. Josh
    August 28, 2014 at 9:29 PM

    Also, did you use a mini-blade ATM/APM inline fuse holder or ATO/ATC and does it matter?

    • August 28, 2014 at 11:22 PM

      Doesn’t really matter as long as the fuse holder holds the blade fuse securely. You can even just hook up the blade fuse to the ends of female quick disconnects if you’re trying to save some cash, but I don’t recommend it. To answer you question, I used ATM/APM type.

      • Josh
        August 31, 2014 at 9:43 PM

        Thanks for clarification!

  12. Josh
    August 28, 2014 at 9:24 PM

    Which SPST relay are you using (i.e.; current and voltage)? I’m looking here but not sure which to bring to my installer?

    • August 28, 2014 at 11:20 PM

      The link you supplied goes to a SPST relay, you need a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay. 30/40 Amp, 12 V automotive relay.

      • Josh
        August 31, 2014 at 9:43 PM

        Thanks for correcting my oversight and the additional info. Much appreciated.

  13. Winston
    June 29, 2014 at 8:08 PM

    Hi, I’m a newbie at this. I would like to follow your guide, but is missing some parts that a newbie needs.

    Step 5
    Connect the GRN wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to a 12V source that’s activated on ACC or Ready mode. A go-to wire for this would be the positive wire on any of the auxiliary power sockets.
    Step 6
    Connect the RED wire from the Hamsar 45060 DRL module to a constant 12V source.

    Can you explain
    1) where I can tap the ACC under the hood?
    2) where I can find a constant 12V under the hood?

    • June 30, 2014 at 9:33 AM

      1.) I haven’t figured out a suitable ACC wire that’s located inside the engine bay since this mod.
      2.) You can use one of these two:

    • MAK
      June 30, 2014 at 11:40 AM

      Hi Wnston,
      I don’t mean to be negative, but this project is not easy. Instead of an hour and a half like the author said, I spent many hours wiring and rewiring, checking and double checking every wire and every connection. It got to the point where nothing would work. Fortunately I was able to return the relays to Terminal Supply. I took the loss on the wires and connectors but that’s okay.
      Side note about the ACC connection, I asked the very same thing myself. No you cannot connect the ACC wire under the hood. You must go through the firewall and connect it to the ACC in the center console. If you don’t know much about automotive, you will have a heck of time doing this.
      Hope all works out for. It did not for me.

      • June 30, 2014 at 12:17 PM

        It’s definitely not a project for novice DIY’ers. If you can wire up a car stereo and/or car alarm system or just know how to read wiring diagrams with ease, the project will take less than 1.5 hours to complete, I know ’cause I’ve timed the original install (and that’s with taking photos for the DIY guide). I’ve completed this mod on 4 different car makes and models as of this writing (’04 Nissan 350Z, ’05 Acura RSX, ’12 Prius Four and ’13 Prius v Three) using the same, albeit slightly modified methodology (to accommodate the different headlight setups). The hardest part of this project isn’t the wiring at all – it’s hands down getting the wire through the firewall for the ACC connection. The wiring part is simply put, just following directions. But even simple reading comprehension is relatively hard to come judging from some of the comments on this guide. Then again, I’ve also wired power folding side mirrors for a ’93 Honda Civic hatchback, the Acura RSX and the Prius – all of which are much more complicated and I’m not exactly inexperienced when it comes to wires.

        My recommendation is to do a “loose” connection set up, making sure everything works and light up. Then tuck everything away when confirmed. Good luck.

  14. Christine F.
    June 4, 2014 at 12:19 PM

    Hi, thanks for the write up! I just moved to Canada and need to make this modification in order to register my car. I called Hamsar about ordering this module and they recommended another and adding fog lights. They also told me that the 45060 DRL Module and 45035 are not comparable. I see that your instructions are over a year old. Do you know if your specifications still hold? It’s $116 to have them build me the module and I just want to make sure it’s the right one. Thanks!

    • June 4, 2014 at 12:25 PM

      Hi Christine, the project was carried over from a previous project I’ve done on a previous car, different make/model. As long as you are using the correct module for the correct headlight set up (regardless of vehicle make/model), you should be fine. My custom high beam DRL still functions as designed.

    • Miles
      June 4, 2014 at 12:59 PM

      I completed all the wiring connection exactly to the wiring diagram. Still no luck.
      I saw you mention a modification to this project to Christine.
      Can I get a copy of mod? Do you think it will help?

      • June 4, 2014 at 1:38 PM

        Did you check your grounding connection? It has to be grounded directly onto the frame or a metal part the extends from the frame/chassis.
        Here’s a link to the RSX DRL project, but I doubt it’ll help as it’s for a different car and the instructions are old and tedious:

        • Miles
          June 4, 2014 at 3:10 PM

          I just double checked. I am grounded to the chassis on the passenger side and the engine block on the drivers side.

        • Miles
          June 7, 2014 at 4:34 PM

          Did you get my earlier response? The passenger side is grounded to the chassis and the driver’s side are grounded to the engine block.

          • June 16, 2014 at 9:46 AM

            Where did you end up connecting the green wire?

          • Miles
            June 16, 2014 at 2:10 PM

            I actually connected the green wire to the accessary jack in the center console via the fire wall as you suggested.
            The truth is, after spending hours of my time working on this project I decided to give up. I double checked all the wiring and connection with no results. Since I was able to return the relays, I decided to cut my loses.

          • June 16, 2014 at 3:14 PM

            Sorry to hear that it didn’t work out. It’s not exactly the easiest of DIYs, compared to bolt-on projects, say like installing the TRD rear sway bar.

  15. Milses
    May 6, 2014 at 6:58 PM

    Sorry for the misunderstood emails. So as I understand it, you have to send a wire inside the car and attach it to the power supply in the center arm rest. How did you get the wire from the Hamsar into the firewall and through the center console?
    Thank you very much!!!

    • May 6, 2014 at 7:30 PM

      You have to route it through a rubber grommet on the firewall, see pic in the guide. Everything you need to know to complete the project is on the guide.

      • Miles
        May 7, 2014 at 8:11 PM

        I am redoing all the wiring and changing out the SPDT relay. I purchased the NTE that is in your guide and I also got a wired connector so I can eliminate all the terminal connectors.
        Here are my wiring issues. On the auto relay side, what gets connected to terminal #85 & #86.
        On the driver’s Low Beam male connector, what does it connect to? I have one wire connected to the Orange wire from the Hamsar. The other lead from the Male connector I have a quick disconnect slpiced to the positive wire of the Prius Low Beam connector.
        Can you help straighen me out?

        • May 8, 2014 at 9:16 AM

          Miles, I strongly recommend that you have this project completed by an experienced installer that knows how to read a wiring diagram.

  16. May 6, 2014 at 1:14 PM

    I do not know an applicable place to attach the Green Auxillary wire coming from the Hamsar relay. I tried to connect it to a 10 amp fuse as stated in the Go-To-Place but it did not work at all. The Red wire from the Hamsar was connected to an open connector in the fuse block.
    Can you help???

    • May 6, 2014 at 1:19 PM

      Did you read my response to your original comment below? If you made the proper connections, you might want to check your grounding source and also your relay (if you are using one). The DRL turns on 5 seconds after you are in accessory mode.

  17. Miles
    April 30, 2014 at 7:02 PM

    I am installing the this DYI DRL for my 2011 Toyota Prius. I am almost finished but have run into a problem.
    When can I connect the Green wire Hamsar 45060 to an accessary power source? I cannot find any access to the engine compartment. The 12V power i not a problem. There are 2 open connectors that I can use. I would greatly appreciate a quick response as my lights are now not functional.
    Thank You,

    • April 30, 2014 at 8:01 PM

      You can use any of the available power sockets or USB port to tap. I used the green accessory wire from the power socket inside the arm rest, see photo in the guide for reference. Since this only modifies your high beams, it should only affect your high beams only.

  18. Mmmodem
    June 3, 2013 at 12:06 AM

    Nice job with the write up. I think the factory LED DRL’s on the 2012+ Prius do an excellent job. I was wondering if you can help me with a mod. I want to wire the car so that the LED DRL’s stay on when the headlights turn on.

    I can only think of rewiring the LED’s as fog lights and include a switch on the dash as you have done. But this doesn’t seem right since it would disable the DRL setting on the stalk.

    • June 3, 2013 at 12:18 AM

      Adding a relay and a dedicated push-button switch to control the OEM LED DRL is a simple task that should take 30-45 minutes to complete. Achieving what you’ve described while retaining OEM stalk functionality will take extra work which requires overriding the low beam trigger input. I’ve been getting a lot of message regarding this mod so I may look into it next weekend.

    • Ben
      April 24, 2014 at 11:09 PM

      Make sure to add a auto-dimmer to it, those LED are just too bright at night 😉

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