DIY: How to install Acura’s A-Spec high wing spoiler on your RSX
This is an installation guide I wrote back in 2007 on how to install Acura’s A-Spec high wing spoiler (aka Type R spoiler) on your 2005-2006 Acura RSX Type S. Allow 2 – 2.5 hours to complete the installation.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES INCLUDED/ REQUIRED
- 12 mm Combination wrench
- 10 mm Socket · Torque wrench
- 3mm and 8mm drill bits
- Center punch
- Rubber mallet
- Round file
- Water soluble felt-tip pen
- Touch-up paint
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Shop towel
This project requires a minimum of two hours and up to three hours for inexperienced do-ityourselfers. Be sure to acquire drill bits that are capable of cutting through sheet metals. Drill bits designed for wood work is HIGHLY not recommended. If you have a partner to work with, you can shave off an additional half hour to complete this project. Be sure to use generous amount of shop towels. When you lay your painted parts on top of these towels, you can avoid having them inadvertently scratched on the ground in which you are working on. Remember, the prepainted parts scratches and become damaged VERY easily!
Open the tailgate and remove the shelf (right and left hooks):
Remove the right shelf hook and right tailgate trip (one self-tapping screw and four clips):
Remove the tailgate trim by pulling it out of its position and then gently lift it down:
Repeat the procedure to remove the left shelf hook and left tailgate trim. Once the parts are removed, store them in a safe place. You can put them in the back seat of your Acura for the mean time.
Remove the tailgate lining (one self tapping screw and ten clips):
This will probably be the hardest part of the entire installation. There is no easy way to remove the lining and you may end up breaking a few clips. The most efficient way to remove this piece is to start off by removing the single self-tapping screw near the 3rd brake light:
Gently, but with force, pry the two outer clips outward. These two clips are closest to the 3rd brake light. Having them popped out of their place, pull the tailgate lining AWAY from the 3rd brake light. If any of the clips are dislocated from the lining and remains on the vehicle’s body, use a needle nose pliers to pull them out from their socket.
Remove the default lip spoiler (two nuts and six clips):
Clean up the hatch with a clean towel and a helping of isopropyl alcohol:
then attach seal to each hole where the clips were removed:
Be sure you seal off the holes where the clips from the stock lip spoiler were attached to. These holes are square/rectangular in shape. The oval shaped hole is there to mount the new deck lid spoiler.
Peel back 2-8cm of the adhesive backings from the inner side of the deck lid spoiler and attach them to the front surface of the deck lid spoiler with tape:
Using isopropyl alcohol on a shop towel, thoroughly clean up the surface where the deck lid spoiler will be installed. Position the deck lid spoiler on the surface you just cleaned, and install the two large cap nuts. Do not tighten the cap nuts just yet:
Position the deck lid spoiler onto the hatch so that the free space on the left and the right is equal distance and that the curved parts of the hatch and spoiler are matched. You may need to use a measuring tape to be sure:
Remove the adhesive backings by pulling them out from the deck lid spoiler, and press the deck lid spoiler firmly with the palm of your hand to adhere.
Tighten the two large cap nuts installed in the previous step.
Locate the two identification marks on the hatch. Using a felt-tip pen, mark the center of each hole. Repeat on the other side.
Be absolutely sure that you’ve marked the absolute center of each identification marks before you center punch each mark! The marks are precise from the factory and if you mispunch the marks, they will not be able to properly accept the high wing spoiler. You only have one shot at doing this correctly!
Using a 3mm drill bit, drill the identification marks. Be careful not to damage the hatch and surrounding body by holding the drill firmly with two hands:
If you do not have a center punch, you may simply use a Philips head screw driver instead (which is what I used). Also, to prevent metal shavings from falling onto the trunk floor, place a cover over the trunk floor. Vacuum as necessary.
Remove the 3mm drill bit from your drill and attach the 8mm drill bit, then drill through the holes you’ve just created. The 8mm drill bit will widen up the holes:
Surprisingly, the drilling part of this project is the quickest and EASIEST.
Apply touch-up paint to both sides of the holes. Apply touch-up paint on surface of the hatch:
Then apply touch-up paint inside the holes. Make sure no bare metal is showing! After painting inside the holes, lift up the hatch and start painting the holes from underneath the hatch:
Using isopropyl alcohol again, thoroughly clean the area where the rear wing spoiler will be attached.
Remove the adhesive from the bases of the rear wing spoiler.
Fit the rear wing spoiler into place on the hatch by inserting the four studs into the holes you’ve just drilled in the hatch:
Do not tighten the caps just yet. Check that the rear wing spoiler is positioned equally on both sides, then torque the cap nuts to 8.8 N-m (0.9 kgf-m, 6.5r lbf-ft).
The hard part of the project is over. Now we need to replace the hatch struts with the included pair from the spoiler kit.
This step is actually crucial. With the new weight added from the high wing spoiler, the old pair of struts does not provide enough force to lift or close the hatch properly. Most people usually disregard this step but the new stronger gas struts prevents you from inadvertently slamming the hatch when you close it and also provides enough power to lift it properly when opening the hatch. You may proceed with these final steps by yourself, or with an assistant. If you are taking these final steps on your own, be sure you have strong arms as you will be lifting the hatch with one arm and bolting the stud bolts with the other!
Remove and discard the right support strut by removing the upper and lower stud bolts using a 12 mm combination wrench:
If you do not have a combination wrench, you may use a crescent wrench adjusted to 12mm setting.
Install the new stud bolts from the kit onto the holes in the hatch and body. Torque the stud bolts to 22 N-m (2.2kgf-m, 16 lbfft):
Install the new right support strut on the stud bolts by lightly tapping on the ball ends with a rubber mallet. BE SURE YOU DO NOT INSTALL THE STRUTS UPSIDE DOWN BY MISTAKE!!!
Repeat steps 22 through 24 to install the left support strut:
You may discard the old support struts: